Buying a Used Car

In the last decade, used cars have become more reliable than ever, and it is possible to purchase a previously owned vehicle still under factory warranty. More options also exist for financing, and some banks even offer leasing. Ask friends about their experiences and satisfaction with their older cars. Also, check magazines such as Consumer Reports, and auto and consumer books such as Edmund's, for information on features, options, repair problems, gas consumption, resale values, etc., of various models.

With all of the available options, consider the following sources when looking for a used car:

  • New and Used Car Dealers. Cars may be serviced by the dealer and sold with limited warranties.
  • Superstores (via in-store computers and/or the Internet). A high-tech, no-price haggling way of buying used cars.
  • Car Rental Agencies. Agencies may sell used rental cars, generally 9 to 12 months old and driven less than 25,000 miles. These used cars may have a lot of wear-and-tear, however.
  • Bank and Loan Companies. Banks may sell repossessed cars to pay off defaulted loans. Quality may vary from car to car, but a good deal is possible.
  • Private Owners. Usually sold through newspaper ads, you may find a well-maintained car selling for less money than you would pay a dealer. If you buy a used car from a private owner, ask for the car's maintenance and repair records and, if the seller is the first owner, for records of the original purchase. Also, check the title to make sure the person selling the car is the legal owner. ***Note: Be wary of fraudulent criminal dealers, commonly known as "curbstoners," who offer vehicles through newspaper ads and may disguise themselves as individual sellers. The cars offered may be stolen or otherwise damaged.

When you've chosen a dealer, be prepared to spend some time examining several vehicles before making a decision. The BBB offers an "On the Lot" checklist to keep in mind:

VEHICLE BODY

  • Have dirty vehicles washed for better inspection.
  • Look for small blisters in the body paint that may indicate future rust sites.
  • Check for paint that does not quite match, gritty surfaces, misaligned body panels and paint overspray on chrome - all possible signs of a new paint job, masking body problems.
  • Look for cracks, heat-discolored areas, and loose bumpers - warning signs of a past accident. Look for welded seams in the trunk and on the floor.
  • Look for small rounded dents on the roof or hood which may indicate hail damage.
  • Check the doors, windows and trunk lid for a close fit, ease of opening and closing, and secure latches. A door that fits unevenly may indicate the car was involved in a collision.
  • Look for hairline cracks and tiny holes in the windows, glass and lights.
  • Be sure all headlights, taillights, brake lights, backup lights, and directional signals work properly. Test the radio, heater, air conditioner, and windshield wipers.
  • Check the upholstery for major wear and tear; look under floor mats and seat covers.
  • Check the adjustability of seats and make sure all seatbelts work.
  • Check the locations and working order of airbags. Ask if they have ever been deployed.
  • Check the steering wheel; unlocked, with the engine off, it should have no more than two inches of play.
  • Check for lots of wear on the driver's seat and/or heavy wear on the brake and accelerator pedals of a car with low mileage; they may indicate tampering with the odometer.
  • Check for uneven wear on the front tires, which usually indicates either bad alignment or front suspension damage.
  • Check for uneven wear on late model cars with radial tires.
  • Check the condition of the spare tire; make sure the correct jack is in working order.
  • Lean hard or "bounce" on a corner of the car and then release it. If the car keeps rocking up and down, the shocks may need replacing.

VEHICLE ENGINE/EXHAUST

  • Look for the battery's guarantee date; batteries generally need replacement after 25,000 miles.
  • Check for black, gummy soot in the tailpipe which may mean worn rings, or bad valves and possibly expensive repairs.
  • Check the oil; oil that is whitish or has white bubbles may mean water has been introduced into the system, and this can be a sign of major mechanical problems.
  • Check the radiator fluid; it should not look rusty.
  • With the engine idling, check the transmission fluid; it shouldn't smell rancid or appear dark brown.
  • Check for leaks and stains under the car, on the engine's underside, and around hose and valve covers.

ROAD TEST CHECKLIST

  • At start-up the car should turn over easily and without excessive noise. Once the car warms up, it is important to listen to the car's engine, transmission, brakes, etc.
  • Test-drive the vehicle on a variety of roads - city street, freeway, two-lane highway and rough-paved and unpaved surfaces. Watch for unusual vibrations, noises or odors.
  • Check the pick up by making several stops and starts, at varying but safe rates of speed on a clear, level road surface.
  • Have a companion look at the exhaust while you let the car decelerate from 45 mph to about 15 mph, then step hard on the gas. Blue smoke may mean worn rings or valves; white smoke may be a cracked block.
  • Check the steering by turning at various speeds. Turn the wheel all the way from one side to the other; power steering should feel smooth with little or no squealing.
  • Make sure the emergency brake holds on a hill and releases easily without sticking. Make sure the brakes stop smoothly without pulsating, squeaking or grinding.
  • Have the vehicle checked for frame damage from a local tire alignment dealer if you suspect a car's structural condition.
  • Look for signs of odometer tampering: white lines between the numbers that do not line up, or vibration of the 1/10 mile numbers when in motion.
  • Take the car to a reliable repair shop for an assessment. You'll have to pay for this service, but the money you invest up front may save you repair costs later. Ask for a written estimate of the costs to repair any problems the mechanic finds, and use that estimate as a bargaining chip when you make your offer for the car.

CLOSING THE DEAL

Before signing a contract:

  1. Take your time to read and understand the entire written agreement; ask questions.
  2. Don't sign unless you are satisfied with the answers.
  3. Be sure that all blank spaces are filled in, that all of the salesperson's verbal promises are included, and that the type of warranty that comes with the car is spelled out. If you are required to make a deposit, ask whether it is refundable, and under what circumstances, and make sure the information is also included in the contract.
  4. Be sure to get a signed statement verifying the mileage at the time of sale. Most state laws require dealers of used cars to provide the buyer with this information in writing.
  5. Know your state's requirements concerning emissions inspections, child safety, seat belt and airbag requirements, and title transfers. Check with your Department of Motor Vehicles for specific laws in your locality.
  6. Keep a record of all your paperwork for the vehicle including the warranty and loan papers.

For more information contact:

Better Business Bureau
(800) 828-5000
www.bbb.org

NYS Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV)
(800) 225-5368 Within Upstate NY
(518) 473-5595 Outside of NY
www.nydmv.state.ny.us

New York State Attorney General
(800) 771-7755
www.oag.state.ny.us

National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA)
(800) 424-9393
www.nhtsa.dot.gov - Information in Vehicle Recalls for Safety Defects

This report is general in nature and is not intended as a reliability report on any company, service or product.